What a cutie!
I can see how it would get into place nothing else would. I have a long reach 5 inch corded Metabo for things with difficult access, but that thing would get into even tighter spots.
Roger
Tool Talk
- Thread starter jo proffi
- Start date
What a cutie!
I can see how it would get into place nothing else would. I have a long reach 5 inch corded Metabo for things with difficult access, but that thing would get into even tighter spots.
Roger
some day I'll buy a set. the traction needs them as well as the modern cars. really they are no good for a jack on the pooges as they sit far to low to the ground. you need a specialty low profile trolley jack to get under the poogoe rcz
Axle Stands Sill Adapters | eBay
Find great deals on eBay for Axle Stands Sill Adapters . Shop with confidence.
www.ebay.com.au
If I could have found a suitable set on line, I would have bought them. There seem to be dozens of different ones available, all the rubber type (which are probably ok for a few years), but all around 28-30mm wide (the part fitting over the stand). I have at least 4 sets of stands the narrowest of which is 32mm wide and the others between 40 and 50mm wide. Checking the first 8 or 10 on the Ebay link above, none were over 30mm. So make sure you check that the ones you buy can fit your stands.
I'm not talking about them to go on a jack, I have the same problem as you with my WRX, need a good low profile jack - I just want them to go on the stands when jacked high enough to work under. And I want them to be safe, and I think these steel ones will do the job.
I might buy one that sits in the "cup" of the jack, but I can usually find a suitable jacking point somewhere near the wheel I want to lift.
The problem is that you can't use the recommended jacking point (on the sill) then replace the jack with a stand, because it's in the same place. I have never tried jacking on the sill about 300mm away from the stand point, but with a good round pad with a sill groove on the jack, it is probably ok.
I have seen a fancy type on Youtube, in the USA, with a "bridge" arrangement straddling the jack with 2 legs on the stand. The legs are inserted into the bridge piece and held with pins, then the jack can be lowered. Looked more trouble than it was worth, but not a bad idea.
But again, I'll say I can't understand why places like Repco, Supercheap, etc, sell a big range of jack stands, but none of them sell the sill adaptors, or why can't they produce stands with the sill slot built in? You got me.
Cheers.
I solve sills too low for my jacks, bodywork that fouls ramps, and similar too low problems simply by running the car onto some lengths of 200x50 timber (rafter offcuts from a building site) laid flat. The 50mm extra height usually is all that is needed. If not, use two planks per side.
2 x Low Profile Car Service Ramps Set 5T Heavy-Duty Lowered Trailer Vehicle Pair | eBay
The acute 9° approach angle and 6.5cm lift height enable sufficient clearance to get a trolley jack under lowered vehicles for maintenance and DIY. 6.5cm lift for lowered car jack access. Suitable for lowered vehicles.
www.ebay.com.au
used a pair of these for BA ute, solved the too low at the front problem
Bob
full length car ramps load pretty much any car. even my 4 post hoist I had to make looooonnnngggg run up ramps and risers for to clear dead hydraulic cars ......... I then found, I also needed them to clear a poogoe 407 and rcz. the rcz in particular is extremely low, but clears much more than the 407. it smashed its nose, belly and arse end into everything.
I was quite suprised to remember how low the traction of all things sits. there isn't much room for a drain pan under its fuel tank. to actaully drive, it will drive over everything the modern cars can't even get the front bumpers to clear let alone bellies.
I was quite suprised to remember how low the traction of all things sits. there isn't much room for a drain pan under its fuel tank. to actaully drive, it will drive over everything the modern cars can't even get the front bumpers to clear let alone bellies.
The commonly available ramps, such as Stanfred, are 1100 to 1200 long. This is too short and steep for the front end of a C5, DS3, C4 and 308. I will bet a 407 won't make it either. That 50mm pre-lift does the trick. You can buy ramp extensions, but they are pricey.
I use these also.
Around 800 long and onto the second rung in the ramps.
Pre ramps. Works well until you leave them in the weather and they go soft.
if I didn't have full length ramps or a hoist .... I'd probably dig a pit in the shed. good exercise is just a bonus 