Another R17 owner planning to upgrade

JohnW said:
Thanks John. No acidity in this one?
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The SDS indicates it is acetic, not neutral cure

1713746698442.png
 
Shoji said:
So will it kill my silver?
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Eventually it'll do the same as JohnW R8 rear view mirror :(

On the permatex link you posted if you click on the TDS you'll see
1713748427276.png


Standard silicones utilize acetoxy or oxime cure mechanisms, releasing acetic or ketonic acid fumes, which will corrode copper and other metals.

What you need is a 'Neutral Cure' RTV Silastic.
By using an alkoxy cure, electronics grade silicones release only non-corrosive methanol, which is not harmful to sensitive electronics.
 
AlexB said:
Eventually it'll do the same as JohnW R8 rear view mirror :(

On the permatex link you posted if you click on the TDS you'll see
View attachment 240388

Standard silicones utilize acetoxy or oxime cure mechanisms, releasing acetic or ketonic acid fumes, which will corrode copper and other metals.

What you need is a 'Neutral Cure' RTV Silastic.
By using an alkoxy cure, electronics grade silicones release only non-corrosive methanol, which is not harmful to sensitive electronics.
Click to expand...
Hence my question. I used Tarzan's Grip though, believe it or not. Happily I can easily get another mirror cut if it misbehaves. I'm glad that Selley's information sheet requires me to wear safety boots when using the product. :)

Thanks for buying into some of these discussions Alex! Appreciated.
 
ah well. If it lasts say another ten years.....
 
Nice spot for fuel pump under the back seat. Bit of ali 4mm angle, paint it up with orange or black. A doddle.
I need a small pipe cutter though - more tools

IMG_20240509_170748.jpg
IMG_20240509_170816.jpg
 
Some electric pumps are quite noisy and try it because you might need a rubber mount. I did for my 12 G replica and the 17 TS. But not my Floride S. Just saying.
 
That's true Sunroof. I had a facet under the bonnet once. I thought surely there's better. Modern cars have quiet ones.
I tried it dry on battery seems good.
Hence I'm trying a more modern pump with a rubber covered clamp, on that ali bracket, under the car, under the rear seat and close to the tank. Filter before the pump.
What's the best wiring scheme to have for a system like this? I don't want a pump running hell for leather.

 
Shoji said:
That's true Sunroof. I had a facet under the bonnet once. I thought surely there's better. Modern cars have quiet ones.
I tried it dry on battery seems good.
Hence I'm trying a more modern pump with a rubber covered clamp, on that ali bracket, under the car, under the rear seat and close to the tank. Filter before the pump.
What's the best wiring scheme to have for a system like this? I don't want a pump running hell for leather.

Click to expand...
Under the seat does mean outside the passenger cabin?
 
JohnW said:
Under the seat does mean outside the passenger cabin?
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If you look closely johnw, the Ali plate has the small pump attached under the car. I may add some extra sound deadening material to the surfaces too.
 
Shoji said:
If you look closely johnw, the Ali plate has the small pump attached under the car. I may add some extra sound deadening material to the surfaces too.
Click to expand...
Couldn't quite work it out but couldn't imagine you'd put it inside!! Thanks John. Neat work!
 
You also need to wire it in such away that if there is an accident and the ignition is on but the motor stops running then so does the pump. One wouldn't want the pump pumping fuel out a broken fuel line or damaged carby. Usual way is via the oil pressure switch once the motor is started directly from the key until the motor actually starts. However not from the key if the ignition remains on once the motor stops. There was a kit about for this once upon a time. Cannot remember the circuitry but includes a relay or two. But modern cars all have this feature so shouldn't be too hard to get a circuit or even the unit from a wreck. Although injected cars run at about 40 PSI so if it is pressure based it may not work.

With the motor running I don't think it matters if the pump keeps pumping even when the fuel bowl is full. If you have DCOE Webers then you need the pressure to be 3 or 4 PSI. In other words a low pressure pump. My cars ran an adjustable pressure valve. The reason for this is to stop sloshing due to high pressure input as the fuel bowl, level is critical. I have been told on rally cars IDF (vertical down) carbs were often used on Alpine rally's because of the continuous sharp corners and the fuel bowl was between the two barrels reducing the chance of one barrel starving for fuel. Not sure why that would be different to a DCOE but was certainly the case on 1063 cars in the 1950's. On my two Gordini motors with 45 DCOE's the main jet does not come on song until 2.8 k to 3 k RPM and that is 100 KPH in top. So progression holes are critical to get smooth running up to 100 KPH. Not sure about your 40mm DCOE's because Gordini's always ran 45's as did 16's when rallied, so I have always run 45's with factory jets. Although factory cars had two different carbs one had adjustable air bleed. Supposedly because the number 1 cylinder, or number 4 on 16's, ran hotter than the others. It is a few years since I was playing with DCOE Webers so forget a bit of the detail.
 
Sunroof said:
You also need to wire it in such away that if there is an accident and the ignition is on but the motor stops running then so does the pump. One wouldn't want the pump pumping fuel out a broken fuel line or damaged carby. Usual way is via the oil pressure switch once the motor is started directly from the key until the motor actually starts. However not from the key if the ignition remains on once the motor stops. There was a kit about for this once upon a time. Cannot remember the circuitry but includes a relay or two. But modern cars all have this feature so shouldn't be too hard to get a circuit or even the unit from a wreck. Although injected cars run at about 40 PSI so if it is pressure based it may not work.

With the motor running I don't think it matters if the pump keeps pumping even when the fuel bowl is full. If you have DCOE Webers then you need the pressure to be 3 or 4 PSI. In other words a low pressure pump. My cars ran an adjustable pressure valve. The reason for this is to stop sloshing due to high pressure input as the fuel bowl, level is critical. I have been told on rally cars IDF (vertical down) carbs were often used on Alpine rally's because of the continuous sharp corners and the fuel bowl was between the two barrels reducing the chance of one barrel starving for fuel. Not sure why that would be different to a DCOE but was certainly the case on 1063 cars in the 1950's. On my two Gordini motors with 45 DCOE's the main jet does not come on song until 2.8 k to 3 k RPM and that is 100 KPH in top. So progression holes are critical to get smooth running up to 100 KPH. Not sure about your 40mm DCOE's because Gordini's always ran 45's as did 16's when rallied, so I have always run 45's with factory jets. Although factory cars had two different carbs one had adjustable air bleed. Supposedly because the number 1 cylinder, or number 4 on 16's, ran hotter than the others. It is a few years since I was playing with DCOE Webers so forget a bit of the detail.
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